On the ruggedly gorgeous coast of the Orosei Gulf, in eastern Sardinia, purple limestone cliffs erupt from the Mediterranean like thousand-foot-high walls of some unconquerable redoubt. Ravines wild with goats tumble onto isolated beaches. On hot days when the sirocco wind blows, the land can smell of wild rosemary and thyme.
Orosel Gulf For all its physical flamboyance, the Orosei (pronounced oh-roh-ZEYE) offers a quieter holiday than the Costa Smeralda, its tony neighbor about two hours north. There, Italian playboys and Arab oligarchs moor their megayachts in twinkling harbors while the paparazzi have a field day.
“The Costa Smeralda is not for us,” said Cosci Vasco, a butcher from Val d’Aosta who was vacationing last summer on Sardinia’s eastern shore with his wife, Paola, a librarian. “The Orosei is very pretty.”
Breathtaking is more like it. About half a dozen remote beaches sit tucked into the limestone folds along the roughly 35 miles of gulf coast, and the customary way to reach many of them is by boat.
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Thursday, 26 February 2009
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